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PIPING HOT TAXIDERMY
AT THE TWINK NEXT DOOR FW26Photos by Kaden Bard Dawson
02.17.2026
The tone, as always, is blunt, shameless, and provocative. King Matisse, aka Twink, got his start in 2021 as a stylist and production assistant for Azealia Banks, after all. The designer creates clothing that speaks playfully to his own community (see the Who Ate All the Pussy hat or the My Pronouns R God tee) without isolating the masses; his work has been featured in Vogue, the New York Times, Paper, and the Wall Street Journal, to name a few.
Twink is a lifestyle. He calls it “an attitude, not a physical thing” – one of carbonated atmospheres, glossy personalities, and maximum volume. This season’s collection steers into the high camp mentality with varied takes on the label’s go-to fabrications. Bodices, jockstraps and boleros are assembled from repurposed skins and scraps.
Thanks to his background in the fine arts, Twink approaches clothing as a malleable medium. His designs manage an impossible merge between sculpture and clubwear that feels equal parts readymade and ready-to-wear. Call it deconstructed eco grime, call it a dystopian dumpster dive. Though illegible at times, the looks tap into both synthetic and biological materials for a surprising, highly caffeinated take on upcycling.
It’s fun, it’s fierce, it’s lighthearted. But queerness at such high visibility also implicates an immediate and deeply serious politic. In the last year, Sydney Sweeney’s eugenics campaign for American Eagle and Conner Ives’ Protect the Dolls t-shirt have brought the fashion industry into non-fashion media discourse on both ends of the ideological spectrum. In such a charged political climate, it is critical as a designer - or really any creator with a platform - to vocalize an active stance against anti-queer and anti-trans movements.
Twink Next Door does so, and loudly. First of all, there’s only Gaga on the playlist, one of many signs that this is a canonically, unabashedly gay event. It’s feathered, plush, sparkled, tactile; this is touch me, look here, I bring the function so bump it! His mantra is “anyone can be twink,” and his world is an all-inclusive, all-you-can-serve buffet. Martinis are served backstage (extra dirty) and models throw donut holes into the audience.
“We wanted eerie, we wanted spacey, we wanted dreamy, a bit chaotic as well. [Cole] sent me a bunch of audio clips from celebrity interviews. We wanted audio moments that you could pick up, but would be scratchy and chaotic and lean into the dystopian celebrity moment that we’re trying to create.”
It is undeniably refreshing to see an explicitly ‘staged’ runway show that satirizes fashion’s emphasis on sensationalism, influence, and entertainment value. It is a relief to see a collection that does not skimp out on quality design. It is even more joyful to see an emerging designer surrounded by a genuine community of care and a queer artist with a supportive family structure. We meet Cole’s mother – The Creator of Worlds, one might say – after the show. She gushes and beams with pride at her son’s work. She wants a Destroyer of Worlds tramp stamp. And honestly? So do we.
On a conceptual level, this maneuver amplifies expressions of identity often considered trashy or shunted to the sides: the camp, clubbed out, stripping, sexed. For a queer designer to clothe queer, trans, and BIPOC models in emblems of abjection and grotesquerie operates upon a logic of emphasis, irony, and redefinition. A critical reading of Twink’s work recognizes the hyperbole inherent here, in which the material reclamation of garbage gestures towards a social reclamation of the marginalized or fringed.
The collection’s attention to the animalesque is particularly indicative of this mechanism. Cheetah coats, cow print suiting, and horn like headpieces steer into the carnal and indulgent. Brash embodiment is posed not as immoral or vicious but instead something glorified, striking, and enfleshed.
While the semantic mechanisms at play in the collection carry a great deal of gravity, they also deliver on visual weight and untamed glam. If one thing is to be taken from the runway this evening, it is the irrepressible presence of community in the face of interference. The people have spoken:
America runs on Twink.
Credits
Designs The Twink Next Door @thetwinknextdoor
Makeup and Hair @imdaddydoll @tommytafoya @w0rldbeforeme @bella_yumi1221 @crownedbykylie @anthonypayne
Production The New Studios @thenewstudios
Space Moxy East Village @moxyeastvillage